Sampling is where a design becomes a real garment. It is also where most delays happen when buyers and factories are not using the same vocabulary. This guide explains the standard apparel sampling stages, what each sample is for, and how we run sampling at YuRong for apparel, babywear and pet clothing.
Before sampling: what the factory needs from you
We can start sampling from a full tech pack, from photos and a reference garment, or from a physical sample you want to develop further. The more complete the information, the fewer rounds you need. Useful inputs include:
- Flat sketches or photos (front, back, details)
- A measurement chart for the base size, or a reference garment that fits well
- Fabric description: composition, weight (GSM), construction, finish
- Trims: zippers, buttons, labels, prints, embroidery
- Target market, target price and expected order quantity
If you do not have a tech pack yet, our team can create technical drawings and recommend fabrics — see our garment development process.
The main sampling stages
1. Proto sample (first sample)
The first physical interpretation of the design. Its purpose is to check style, construction and overall look — not exact colour. Proto samples are often made in available, similar fabric while bulk fabric is still being developed. Expect comments and changes; that is normal.
2. Fit sample
Made after the proto comments, in the base size, to check fit on a model or mannequin. Measurements are taken and compared with the chart. There may be more than one fit round, especially for jackets, fitted styles or new brands still defining their fit block.
3. Size set sample
One sample in each size (or in the smallest, base and largest sizes) to confirm that the grading is correct across the size range. This matters for kidswear and babywear, where size steps are small and errors are easy to see.
4. Salesman sample (SMS)
Samples in correct or near-correct fabric and colours, used by the brand for photography, catalogues, trade fairs and wholesale selling. SMS are usually made in a small quantity per colour.
5. Pre-production (PP) sample
The most important approval before bulk. The PP sample is made in actual bulk fabric and trims, with final labels, prints and construction. Once the buyer signs off the PP sample, it becomes the reference for production and for the final inspection.
6. Top of production (TOP) sample
Pieces taken from the first garments off the production line, sent to the buyer to confirm that bulk matches the approved PP sample. Problems found at TOP stage can still be corrected before the full order is finished.
Other samples you may hear about
- Lab dip — a small dyed fabric swatch to approve colour before bulk dyeing
- Strike-off — a test of a print or embroidery on actual fabric
- Wash test sample — to check shrinkage and appearance after washing
- Shipping sample — pieces taken from the packed goods before dispatch
Do you need every stage?
No. For a simple re-order of an existing style, a PP sample in the new fabric lot may be enough. For a brand-new jacket with taped seams and down filling, expect proto, at least one fit round and a PP sample. We will suggest a sampling plan based on the product, your timeline and your experience with the style.
How long does sampling take?
Because our sourcing team works with large local fabric and trim markets, we can usually turn around a sample in 3–7 days once materials and specifications are confirmed. Complex outerwear, custom-dyed fabrics or special trims take longer. After PP approval, bulk production lead time is typically around 30 days, depending on quantity and complexity.
Sample costs
Sample charges depend on the style and materials. In most cases the cost of samples can be deducted from the final bulk order. Courier costs for international sample shipping are usually paid by the buyer.
Tips for faster, cheaper sampling
- Give all comments in one document, with photos and measurements
- Mark the most important points of measure (chest, length, sleeve) and their tolerances
- Approve fabric and colour early — fabric is usually the longest lead-time item
- Keep one approved sample as the “golden sample” and send the factory a matching one
- Ask for photos and measurements before the sample is couriered, to save a round
From sample to bulk with YuRong
Senior pattern makers, fast sampling and a direct link to bulk production make sampling smoother with us. Once your PP sample is approved, it guides every step of production and our AQL 2.5 quality control. Ready to start? Send us your tech pack or reference photos through our contact page.
